Hagerty.com

1961-1967 Econolines


#1

I love these vans, I have had mine for about 8 years. I swear this van is trying to put me over the edge. I have not been able to figure out how to keep this thing running cool or more important keep the heat out if the cockpit. I’ve been all over the Web with no solutions. I’ve installed 3 carbs, one new, electronic ignition (2 kinds) electric fans on the original radiator and one new aluminum 3 core radiator with fan, insulated the inside of the doghouse with some kind of nasa foil that is supposed to be great, insulated the outside with standard sticky stuff they use under carpet just to watch it melt, rebuilt the head, installed fresh air intake to the card and reinstalled the original air cleaner, located and reinstalled the original belly pan that everyone threw away during the first repair to the van, anti freeze/coolant with wetter water. You get the point. The van is hot as hell and because it’s so hot it boils the gas and then it stinks to high heaven after you shut it down. Basically it has no redeeming qualities, except, the body style is absolutely badass and absolutely everyone digs it. I’ve got to figure this out or get a new old lady (she’s tired of hearing about it). If anybody has figured this out, I sure would like to hear from them.
Thanks for listening to me whine, go Ford.


#2

Have you changed the water pump and/or the thermostat? Hoses can get clogged like arteries and the thermostat can be sticky , water pump could even be clogged or causing drag. As for engine heat in the cabin, Raptor skin heat coating is very good, spray or paint it in and it helps with sound and heat, wrap or ceramic coat the exhaust manifold will keep the heat down in the engine area. I Jet Hot coated a few headers in the classic Minis I had and that help greatly with heat in the engine bay. The Mini has the carburetor right above the exhaust, so heat can boil the fuel. Jet Hot coating stopped that.


#3

I was thinking about ceramic coating the exhaust manifold, on the ford 240 the intake and exhaust manifolds are intertwined and I wasn’t sure just coating the exhaust would work. I aiso installed an electric pump for fuel and installed a fiber spacer under the carb for heat transfer, I’m just wondering how they sold thousands of these things without everyone returning them. The water pump appears to circulate well and the t-stat opens and closes as designed as best I can tell. I will follow up on the ceramic coat and give it a try.
Thanjs for the input.


#4

Ceramic coating the combined intake/exhaust would help to keep the heat radiating from the exhaust side and the intake coated will reflect the heat. The convection heat through the combined part would still get hot, but figure it would be lessened heat transfer to the cabin. I’d still suggest you change out the thermostat, simple and cheap enough to replace and good piece of mind knowing it is one less thing you have to figure out.


#5

Have you found any solution for your heating issue? I have a 67 A100 truck with a 318 and it seems to run hot as well. I added a 3 core radiator, electric push fan, new thermostat 185 and even disconnected the heater hoses as I saw one hose have a pin hole. I too had the dog house insulated with the greatest insulator on the market, added a petronix kit to the distributor and yes I too added the wetter water to the radiator. Lastly I added a secondary terms gauge to keep an eye on how hot she runs and after a short cruise she seemed to maintain around 210 but that was on a day when it was 70 degrees. The only thing I have yet to do is replace the water pump but I am open to suggestions too.


#6

Unfortunately no, she runs like a dream until the heat soak gets to the fuel bowl and then the gas boils. I imagine the dodge and chevy mid engine vans are all similar on this topic. I guess we have to relocate to alaska and stay cool. I’m about to give up and sell the van.


#7

well, don’t give up just yet. I have read that some of these A100’s had 2 different types of distributors and changing the stock one may make a difference. I know you have already passed all these routine inspections but how about your timing, that could definitely be a culprit to the overheating. I know on mine that is my next step and I will be removing the mechanical cooling fan and put an electric “pull” fan in place of the push one I have. It almost seems a curse to have the power of the 318 yet we seem to run a lil too warm. Let’s see, radiator, water pump, hoses, thermostat, timing, ignition, wetter water, electric fan, fan shroud, not sure what else there is other than to put a 4 core radiator in and moving to Alaska…


#8

Well you have me thinking again. My problem is not overheating, I have that under control. My problem is just running hot, in excess of 210 degrees on a warm day. The real problem is the heat being trapped in the dog house and then emanating into the cockpit. In addition the trapped heat causes heat soak into the carb and then boiling the gas which causes vapor lock, and overwhelming gas fumes and smell in the cockpit. So, I’m thinking again, my new scheme is installing an exhaust fan In the dog house and suck the hot air from the top using ducts and exhaust it out the bottom if the van. I just looked on ebay under 12 volt exhaust fan and some self contained marine engine compartment 4 inch fans are for sale for under 25 dollars. They move between 120 and 350 cfm depending on which one you pick. I’m thinking if I connect it to my circuit that runs my radiator fan and constantly sucks that much air from the top of the dog house, it has to be replaced by cool air from somewhere. Your thoughts?