How to Remove Rattles Part 2


Last week I talked about clunks, thunks, and rattles, the theoretical differences between the three, as well as the process to de-clunk a car. Today we move on to hoods, trunks, and doors, which can be major sources of noise on vintage cars.

This is a companion discussion topic for the original entry at https://www.hagerty.com/articles-videos/articles/2018/01/29/siegel-how-to-remove-rattles-your-car-part-2


FWIW…I’ve discovered clear silicone caulk is excellent at eliminating a lot of rattles and squeaks inside doors and car interiors. Especially when those “generic” grommet replacements aren’t practical or available. Just an almost invisible skim-coat between plastic or metal interior bits stops squeaks. Only downside is you have to apply and let it set up before putting things back together.


The “Non-adjustable hood standoff on my 2003 BMW 530i” is actually adjustable. A close look will show that the lines around the bottom are actually a thread and the core support is stamped in a thread pattern also. It can just be adjusted by rotating it, by hand, up or down.
Thanks for all the hints.


Ha. that is indeed clearly a threaded adjustable hood standoff. You can see the threads right in it in the picture he took.
Thanks for the tips. I am fighting a monster of a dash squeak in a Fox Body Mustang. It is temperature related. If it’s 40 or below it squeaks non-stop like MAD and endlessly. When it gets much above 40, no squeak. But when it’s cold it is truly a mind numbing and totally distracting from the driving experience squeak. I’ve owned cars from the '60s and I understand you have to accept a certain amount but you would go insane listening to this squeak. I’ve dropped the steering column and pulled the console and dash out of it and still can’t find it! ARGGGG…