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More essential pointers for safe winter car storage

With the polished aluminum parts, I have seen nice cars where condensation has collected in early spring and etched white corrosion onto what should be flawless polished bits.
To avoid this, I put a “ heating pad” set at constant on and low setting between the engine and the lightly closed hood.
I keep a battery tender on the Glasmat battery so the power cord comes out from the front of the hood.
The heating pad keeps the engine just warm enough that condensation never happens.
I scatter moth ball packs … many moth ball packs under the car . Doesn’t seem to make the interior smell and never see a sign of mice. This has been my routine for the past 25 years Halloween night until early May… Supra still looks and runs like new.

I like the Mumbles solution. Had major construction across from our townhouse. Neighbors on both sides had lots of mice. We had none—our two cats made sure.
Paw prints & one scratch in the paint, but better than a real ‘animal house’.

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To keep rodents out I use ultrasonic pest control units like the ones you purchase on Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/Bocianelli-Ultrasonic-Electronic-Repellent-Cockroach/dp/B07WV748GB/ref=sr_1_15?keywords=ultrasonic+pest+device&qid=1574536590&sr=8-15
completely stopped my problems with mice living in my vehicle. Damp Rid (also purchased from Amazon as well as Lowes Home Improvement got rid of all the moisture issues. I also crank my show vehicles up once every two weeks and let them run until the engine fan comes on.

The absolute best way to keep your classic safe, dry and free from rodents or any other creepy crawly is to invest in a car capsule. I used to keep my 2 GTOs in heated storage for the winter until I discovered the capsules 4 years ago. Not only do I save a ton of money by not paying somebody else to keep my cars but they are way more secure in the protective “bubble”. I’m surprised more guys don’t use them…for the price of a really good car cover( which traps moisture ), you could have one if these.

Don’t store your car in a rodent filled space. Spend a few bucks before winter and get your storage space sealed up and rodent free.

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I have been storing my classic cars, and my boat as well, for months on end every winter. I have never had a mouse invasion after discovering the effectiveness of buying a small bottle of peppermint extract.(in the spice isle of the grocer). Remove the lid and allow the scent to fill the car or boat. It must be too much for their little mousy noses to handle, and they seem to avoid the compartments.

I solved all of my winter storage issues and moved to southern Florida. Winter is the best time to drive my classics.

I’ve found it more prudent to store my two Avantis in a facility thats as mouse resistant as possible. For several years I had stored my '76 Avanti 65 miles away in my daughter and son in law’s farm garage shed, weather tight with a concrete floor. When I added an '89 convertible to the '76 in the same shed, the mice had a field day with the convertible, eating nylon pile carpeting off the doors and trunk as well as stripping some electric window wiring for both doors, surprisingly, they did not bother the '76 at all. I’ve since stored both cars in a storage facility that used to be a commercial chicken raising operation. The buildings are weathertight with concrete flooring and the owner does a good job of keeping any potential critter population down with plenty of poison. I also blanket the insides of cars with Bounce fabric sheets, but then again I also did that with the convertible and ended up with over $1500 of critter damage. Haven’t had any issues since switching to the new facility.

Winter storage! I had my snowtires studded on my 55 Chevy last week. Storage.:joy::joy: Who you saving it for? Enjoy it throughout the seasons. They did have snow in 1955. I’m sure there were cars on the road then. I drive mine daily. No antique or classic plates. Just a regular license plate. My insurance carrier has provisions for daily driving. Drive it, don’t store it.

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I wouldn’t need to use storage if I didn’t have only 2 garage spaces for 4 cars. Always on the look out for a place closer to my home area growing up for a place on one level and space for four cars.

My approach to mice is multiple. A few ultrasonic in wall sockets, poison pellets in cat food tines, mouse traps with peanut butter, and mouse traps with cheese.

I’m not a young guy. 72. I want to have as much time with the 55 as I can. I did a lot of work by myself on it. 7 years worth. Told the wife how much its worth and to sell it, unless one of my kids wants it. Same goes for my other 4 vehicles. Except for my wife’s new suv. With my current health, life for me is too short to loose out on 6 or so months of driving my 55. :grin:

The Montero up on stands is my 4-season driver. The other two are California cars. The Starlet would be wicked fun in the snow, but I just can’t do it. Road salt sucks. I just did the Montero rear brakes. First time I’ve used an air chisel on a brake job. :grin:

I live in Ontario, Canada where putting away my 87 Lincoln Continental Givenchy happens just about now. Just before I put the car the away I have it sprayed with an oil undercoating from my local Krown dealer that’s designed to creep into the tiniest crevices and keep dampness out and stopping rust. I’ve been doing this for years and it works. The bonus is that it keeps the areas that mice creep up into covered in oil and they hate it. So not only do I have a rust free car but totally free of mice & bugs. When possible I’ll back the car out, let it run, check tire pressures etc. Pretend it’s summer and that I’m out for a drive then put it away for the spring rollout and cleaning. I really don’t like winter much anymore.

Wow. That looked like one heck of a job. Just think if you didn’t have an air tool. One of the hardest things I’ve done on my 55 was to swap out rear ends, the whole differential by myself. I ordered the differential and it came to my house in 4 boxes. I modified a transmission jack to build it on and install it. Worked like a charm. Hardest part was lining up those leaf spring pins into the differental holes. The pins on the new springs were too short and had to make new pins. Had to wiggle the differential a bit to get the pins to seat. I’d get one side seated, then the other side would pop out. Like a comedy skit. But finally got it done. I’m getting too old for this stuff.:grin:

I try to run my cars and bikes every 2 weeks when its dry out and not snowing. Along with maintainer on the battery and rodent control, stable in the gas(no alcohol). If you have the time to do so, letting them run for at least 20 minutes varying the throttle, will keep the carbs working great every spring. Drive them a little if there is no salt on the road. But never start your car and shut it off after only a couple minutes. I see people do this all the time. It leaves moisture in the exhaust and your gaskets and seals never come up to temp, The longer your machine sits, the more likely it is to have a problem in the spring.

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I have a 1980 Rolls Royce Silver Shadow !!. It is getting mechanically restored. I have arrangements with my mechanic to do major repairs over the winter, as the car may have to wait, disassembled, for a part to be rebuilt which sometimes takes months. Frees up a garage stall for my year round sport sedan. This may be a good option if you are planning major work on your car.

@Goth - I’m curious at to where you live if studded snow tires are legal. I can’t think of any off the top of my head.

Pennsylvania its legal.

New Hampshire and Vermont legal all year round.