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The Wrenchmen - Todd's 1957 Volkswagen Beetle


#1

In Episode 5, Matt and Davin meet Todd, whose eBay-purchased 1957 Volkswagen Beetle wasn’t all it was cracked up to be. Watch as they take on the steering, brakes, clutch assembly, and electrical gremlins to get this old VW back on the road.


This is a companion discussion topic for the original entry at https://www.hagerty.com/articles-videos/articles/2017/09/20/the-wrenchmen-volkswagen-beetle

#2

Nice project car! I noticed you adding wrong motor oil without ZDDP additive. ZDDP is an anti-wear additive used in motor oil to protect highly loaded sliding surfaces against wear. In most engines, this is the lobes on the camshaft(s). In older engines with flat tappet lifters (both mechanical and hydraulic), ZDDP also protects the bottom of the lifters against wear. In newer engines that have roller cams and lifters, I thoughts it let you know this matter.


#3

I totally agree with vairnut62. ZDDP, otherwise known as zinc dialkyldithiophosphate, “…produces a phosphate-glass coating that protects the metal…”. Mobil 1 European Car Formula 0-W40 synthetic oil meets Mercedes-Benz specification 229.5 and contains 1,200 parts per million of ZDDP. Given the relatively small amount of oil the air-cooled VW engine uses, you can’t afford not to use the best oil available. Just my two cents.


#4

We put the zinc additive in the engine, but it turns out most of it ended up on the cutting room floor!


#5

The bug needs a rear engine tin that covers above the muffler and a rubber seal. Without these two items the engine will over heat, especially in the summer. Without these the engine fan will pull heated air directly form the muffler and blow it onto the cylinders.


#6

Thanks, gr8rodan. Todd had the extra engine shrowd pieces. He was painting them before he put them back on the Bug.


#7

Hi I enjoyed the video!! I just bought a 72 Beetle and from what I understand the recommended viscosity is 20W50 not 5W30. Not sure what Mercedes specs have to do with a vintage VW but the vintage VW specialist in Welland has advised me as such. Thanks!


#8

Right on…just that it caught my eye.

Matt
September 21 |

Thanks, gr8rodan. Todd had the extra engine shrowd pieces. He was painting them before he put them back on the Bug. Visit Topic or reply to this email to respond.
In Reply To

gr8rodan
September 21 |

The bug needs a rear engine tin that covers above the muffler and a rubber seal. Without these two items the engine will over heat, especially in the summer. Without these the engine fan will pull heated air directly form the muffler and blow it onto the cylinders. Visit Topic or reply to this email to respond. To unsubscribe from these emails, click here.


#9

5W30 in engine thats been sitting around and not used for who knows how long is not a bad strategy. Carefully running a thinner than normal oil has a cleansing effect, more than running a fresh batch of thicker oil. Proof in the pudding, so to speak, if the oil looks dirty after just a few hundred gentle (to engine) miles. Some people would suggest adding some kerosene or even diesel fuel to the oil to clean things out quick, but whats the hurry and why add non-lubricant liquids to oil? Main point being if running thinner than normal oil for this purpose to keep your foot out of it.


#10

Your comment about Trans lube coming out of the wheel bearing seal is VERY wrong. There is no fluid connection from the trans to the wheel bearing.


#11

Classic Car Motor OIl works great for all pre-catalytic converter cars. 15W/40 1600 PPM zinc. Contact CCMO from the CCCA Indiana Region.