*A little closer oil change intervals are advisable. But it’s not just because a small amount of oil is injected into the combustion chamber. It’s also because almost every rotary I’ve had experience with suffers from a little fuel dilution over time. Despite this, the rotary engine suffers from few oil related failures. And I think it’s split pretty much down the middle among long time owners on the Mineral vs. Synthetic oil question. Yes, synthetic doesn’t burn as well, but it does burn and it’s a very small amount. And remember this is a engine has two journal bearing turbos. It’s here that synthetic oil’s heat tolerance and shear properties can excel. I wouldn’t be dissuaded on a car regardless of the type of oil the owner used.
*All the heat related “reliability” modifications I agree with. What I don’t remember being mentioned is frequent coolant changes. It’s a bi-metal engine block. Coolant goes acidic over time. The engine has soft seals…the rotary’s version of a head gasket. Serious overheating of the engine and coolant neglect can lead to their failure which IMO is responsible for at least as many engine overhauls as worn or stuck hard seals.
*Another thing I may have missed in the article is mention of the OEM engine mounts. They’re rubber and tend to weaken and fail with age. The early production cars (93) were especially prone to failure because of an arm design that was improved in later models. Check for unusual movement of the shifter on acceleration/deacceleration. Aftermarket mounts are available that are very close to OEM in NVH and can be changed by most do it yourselfer’s.
*As was common on many cars of that era, the stock temperature gauge is NOT linear. If you’re going to drive the car, along with a boost gauge, add an aftermarket temperature gauge. For the more ambitious, the stock gauge can also be linearized.
*I disagree with changing the engine wire harness unless there’s a demonstrable need. A new harness is expensive, IIRC well over $1000 and changing it with the engine in the car is NOT a walk in the park. Labor for that would probably double the cost. If the engine is out and the harness is off, it’s tedious but not difficult to check continuity of a harness and re-wrap using modern materials. Things like injector pigtails are also available and easily changed.